Get It Growing: Protecting plants from winter weather

Published 1:30 am Wednesday, October 29, 2025

As the days grow shorter and cooler, the garden naturally begins to wind down — and so does this Master Gardener “Get it Growing” column. The “Get it Growing” column will leave you with a little winter advice and then return in spring.

Although the Olympic Peninsula enjoys a fairly mild winter, freezing temperatures, snow, and harsh winds can and do happen occasionally. A savvy gardener will think about winter protection long before the first frost.

Choosing the right plant for the right place sets the stage for resilience, but winter care doesn’t end there. Thoughtful placement, safe coverings, and proper handling of snow and ice all help ensure your landscape emerges healthy and ready for spring.

The old adage “right plant, right place” is never truer than in winter. A plant suited to your climate will withstand normal seasonal conditions without extraordinary measures. However, unusually (not normal) cold weather does occur, so choosing plants one USDA zone below the recommendation for your area is never a bad idea.

Native plants, adapted to local conditions, are usually the safest bet for long-term survival.

Microclimates within your yard can also make a difference. Low areas that collect cold air may be harsher than slightly elevated ground. Southern exposures often warm more quickly in the morning sun, while north-facing slopes can remain icy longer. When designing or updating your landscape, take advantage of these differences to put plants where they are most likely to succeed.

Even with careful planning, most gardens include a few plants that push the limits of hardiness. These more tender specimens should be given the best possible location. Place them near structures such as a house, garage, or fence, which radiate stored warmth and buffer winds. Courtyards, patios, or spots sheltered by evergreen hedges are also ideal, since they can be a few degrees warmer than exposed parts of the yard.

If you garden in containers, if possible, move the pots closer to the house foundation, into an unheated garage, or beneath covered porches to protect both roots and foliage.

Roots are often less hardy than the above-ground parts of a plant, so safeguarding them is important.

When a sudden cold snap arrives, temporary coverings can make the difference between survival and damage. Burlap, frost cloth, or old sheets are excellent choices for insulating shrubs and perennials. These materials trap heat without suffocating the plant. Avoid using plastic directly on foliage; it can trap moisture, cause condensation, and freeze against leaves, leading to injury.

Drape covers loosely; try anchoring them to the ground so warmth rising from the soil stays trapped around the plant. For small shrubs or roses, create a simple frame with stakes or tomato cages before draping the cloth to prevent weight from crushing branches. For evergreens, which lose moisture through their needles even in winter, burlap windbreaks are especially useful in exposed locations.

Winter on the Olympic Peninsula can bring the occasional pile of heavy snow and ice onto branches, stressing or even breaking them. (Who can forget the snowmageddon of 2019?) The best approach to prevent damage to vulnerable shrubs is to tie them up with soft twine if heavy snow threatens; this will help them bear the load more evenly.

When snow does accumulate, resist the urge to shake branches strenuously, which can cause them to snap. Instead, use a broom or soft rake to gently brush the snow off while supporting the plant. If branches are coated in ice, be patient. Attempting to knock ice off can cause more harm than waiting for a natural thaw.

Be sure and wait until plants start their spring growth to properly assess winter damage and what to do about it. Don’t jump to any quick decisions; wait until the normal time for the plant to bud-out or emerge before removing it. Many plants that look like goners may bounce back.

Any obvious physical injuries to trees and shrubs should be removed as soon as possible. Broken limbs or branches should be pruned back to the branch collar (i.e., the shoulder or bulge at the base of the branch) so they can heal.

Trees or shrubs that remain bent from the weight of snow or ice should be propped up and supported while the branches are still pliable. Branches of hedge plants that have splayed can be propped up with twine during the next growing season, giving them time to strengthen.

Hardiness Zones

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has defined 13 zones based on the average annual minimum temperature using 10-degree increments. These zones are subdivided into separate 5-degree increments for better accuracy.

Hardiness zones indicate a plant’s cold tolerance or its ability to “winter over,” with zone 1 indicating the coldest temperatures and zone 13 the most tropical. Most of the northern part of the Olympic Peninsula is Zone 8b, indicating temperatures between 15-20 degrees. (Zone 8a – 10-15 degrees and Zone 7b – 5-10 degrees).

More information about USDA Climate zones can be found at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/.

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Susan Kalmar is a WSU Clallam County Master Gardener.