Traveler’s Journal: Drawn by birds, captivated by Cuba
Published 2:30 pm Wednesday, February 25, 2026
In November 2024, with winter closing in and our need for sunshine growing urgent, we found ourselves craving a quick escape. We only had a couple of weeks free and, as birders, wanted to explore somewhere entirely new.
Mexico tempted us, but we felt two weeks wouldn’t begin to do it justice. So we scanned the Caribbean and landed on Cuba — an island that had long intrigued us with its history, culture, and natural beauty. And for birders, Cuba offers an irresistible draw: the smallest bird in the world — the 2.2-inch Bee Hummingbird.
There are 12 categories under which U.S. citizens are permitted to visit Cuba, one of which is “Support for the Cuban People.” This is the category we used. Learning that an estimated 89% of Cubans live in extreme poverty only strengthened our desire to economically support the Cuban people by utilizing local services. Surprisingly, the trip came together with ease, and just five weeks after deciding we needed a break, we were jetting off to the “Pearl of the Antilles.”
What we found exceeded every expectation. Yes, the birding was spectacular — todies flashing emerald and rose through the forests, flamingos turning the salt flats pink — but the soul of the trip was the people and the rhythm of daily life. For ten days we bumped along country roads and empty highways in a candy apple red 1955 Buick with our driver and guide, exploring nature reserves such as Viñales Valley National Park and the famed Zapata Swamp. We stayed in welcoming casa particulares and ate simple but delicious meals of fresh fish, rice, and tropical fruit.
We visited historic sites including the Bay of Pigs and the Cueva de los Portales, where Che Guevara hid during the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis. Everywhere we went, we witnessed the resilience of the Cuban people — making do with little, yet greeting us with warmth, smiles, and hospitality.
And yes, we did see Bee Hummingbirds, buzzing like tiny gemstones through the garden of a local man who discovered that planting native flowers attracts not only Zunzuncitos but birders from around the world who are happy to donate a couple dollars to maintain his garden and aid his community.
By the time we packed our binoculars to return to the cold, wet Pacific Northwest, we realized the journey had changed us. We’d come for the birds, but we left with something far deeper — a sense of kinship and admiration for a people navigating immense challenges with grace and generosity. And while Cuba’s beauty is undeniable, its greatest gift is its spirit.
We flew home not only hoping to return, but determined to find ways to give back to the island and the people who welcomed us so openly. We hope that by sharing our story with Traveler’s Journal, others will be inspired to visit Cuba, helping us to keep our promise to support its people.
About the presenters
Bob and Enid were both born with an insatiable curiosity about nature and the world around them. During their working careers, they had little time to travel, so they hiked and backpacked near their home in Pennsylvania. In later years, they traveled around the U.S. and Europe before choosing to relocate to Sequim in 2012. Since moving west, Bob and Enid have traveled less frequently but to more remote locations, including the Papua New Guinea, Patagonia, and South Georgia Island, which they shared during previous Travelers Journal Series.
When asked why they travel, they list many reasons: to learn, to experience, to seek adventure, and to satisfy their curiosity — but relaxation isn’t one of them! In addition to traveling, Bob and Enid enjoy an eclectic mix of hobbies, including birding, volunteering, woodworking, gardening, and dog sports.
About the series
Traveler’s Journal, a presentation of the Peninsula Trails Coalition, raises funds to buy project supplies and food for volunteers working on Olympic Discovery Trail projects. Shows start at 7 p.m. Thursdays at the Dungeness River Nature Center, 1943 W. Hendrickson Road.
Admission is a suggested donation of $10 for adults.
For more information, or to offer to be a future presenter, email Arvo Johnson at amjcgj@gmail.com.
